Day 18: Rovaniemi - Santa Claus home at the Arctic Circle

The sleepers on the overnight train did not disappoint. All sleepers were 2-bed compartments, and if you are 'unlucky', you'd have to share your 'room' with a stranger. In any case, the policy is that you would never share with anyone of the opposite sex. Luckily for me, I had the whole room to myself for the entire journey so it was an unexpected 'bonus'.

All sleepers are arranged into tiny 2 bunk bed 'rooms', much like a hostel. They are tiny, but self sufficient. There is a sink, mirror, power points, alarm clock, racks for clothes, and common toilets and showers are just down along the corridor. You have your own key card to your room so you can safely leave your belongings in the room if you wander off to the restaurant car. The bed was comfortable, and pillows, sheets, and duvet are all provided, and you get a small bottled water as well. I DID get a good night's sleep and I would definitely recommend a sleeper over a normal seat any time.

Perhaps I had walked too much in the past couple of days or it could be the weather, but my throat started to act up during the night and I had to get up several times as I tried to cough out the phlegm.

At around 8am, I decided to take a walk down to the restaurant car for coffee. As I walked passed the seating carriage, I was surprised to find that there were fewer than 10 people in all. Looks like not many people were on the train that night! In any case, it was a weekday and maybe more people travel during the weekends.

As expected, food in the restaurant car was expensive. A small cup of normal filter coffee set me back by 2.50 euro. Outrageous! There were only 3 other people in the restaurant car, so I had a very nice time finishing my coffee while enjoying the passing scenery.

The train was late by 10 minutes and we reached Rovaniemi at 11.30am. Bus number 8 from the train station to Santa Claus Village was scheduled to arrive at 12.10pm. However, the bus stop wasn't very well sign-posted and I found out later that I would just have to wait at the car park on the left side of the station.

The weather was depressing. Dark clouds filled the sky and there was a drizzle. I had expected crowds to Santa Claus Village, but instead I cut a very sorry sight waiting for bus number 8 ... alone! All my excitement dispersed somewhat, until a family of 4 came along with luggage. Ah ha! 2 kids off to see Santa Claus!

But I was totally wrong! The bus stopped at Rovaniemi Airport and the whole family got off. The very empty bus arrived at Santa Claus Village 30 minutes later and I was the only tourist who got off the bus. A few others were locals who could be there for other reasons.

Santa Claus Village is technically just a tourist trap of gift shops and more gift shops. There are numerous other buildings in the 'Village' that are either cafes/restaurants or offers winter-time activities (e.g. sledging). As it was not winter, there really wasn't much to do, except to visit Santa Claus at his office. Interestingly, the office is closed door with big signs saying 'Free to enter'. As a famous world-wide celebrity, photos were not allowed and official photos come at a hefty price if you want to take pictures with the bearded man. There were very very few people at the Village, and it felt more like a ghost village. It was suddenly not so exciting anymore! :(

I spent the rest of my time buying and sending postcards. I also got myself a certificate that verified I have crossed the Arctic Circle. I think this is the only place where you can get such a certificate. I also got a special Santa Claus stamp on my passport :)

The very helpful and friendly Tourist Information desk suggested that I stop by the city center before my overnight train at 9pm. I took the 3.50pm bus back to the city and got off at the MacDonald stop. This is the world's northern-most MacDonald. Although there was nothing special about the food (burgers are still burgers), it was still kind of cool to dine here. The staff also gave me a special postcard that is issued only for this MacDonald in Rovaniemi. View the northern lights while eating burgers? Hmmm... I'm not so sure ;)

Finally, I did some window shopping around the city center before walking back to the train station in the rain. By now, I was officially sick with a throbbing headache, sore throat, and a nagging cough. I just hope I will be lucky enough to have the whole sleeper room to myself again ...